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Siena and surrounding areas

Girls in the Piazza del Campo

 

Campo's Town Hall and Clock Tower

 

Siena's beautiful Duomo

 

View of city from above Duomo

 

Monteriggioni's tiny church

 

Monteriggioni's tiny piazza

 

Frescoes of San Gimignano's Collegiata

SIENA colored warm terracotta tiles melt in the main square when the afternoon sun begins to fade. It’s said the lovely city of Siena was found by Senius, son of Remus (founder of Rome) raised by a she-wolf. However this city was born, its medieval battle history, the “Black Death” (plague), its legendary (and current) rivalry with Florence and  present day spectacle of the Palio horse race could fill volumes. Not to mention its beauty and distinct gifts of Sienese Gothic-style art. The must sees are the Duomo, Museo Civico, and of course the main square, fan shaped and welcoming, Piazza del Campo.

In 1284, Siena planned for their Duomo to be the largest church in Christendom, but after the plague killed 4/5 of the population the plan was abandoned. Despite style changes and dormant periods, today the church’s interior is absolutely spectacular. From a marbled mosaic floor to a 3-dimensional looking ceiling, this interior is far more treasure filled than rival and more popular Duomo of Florence. Inside, make time for the tiny Piccolimini library with Pinturicchio’s amazingly colored frescoes and manuscripts. Drop a coin to shed light on the pulpit and other works.

Still serving as the Palazzo Publico (Town Hall), some of the art rich rooms are now the town’s Museo Civico , with endless walls of Siena’s greatest Gothic art, by artist such as Simone Martini and Lorenzetti.

The town hall is at the base of Siena’s famous 12th century square, the lively Piazza del Campo. The huge piazza is a delight for people watching and baby chasing, truly Siena’s meeting room. Facing it you’ll find the medieval clock tower, Italy’s second tallest after the one in Venice (built 100 years later)

Suggestion: The city is split in defined contrade (parish/neighborhoods), much like New York. Try to find evidence of the contrada’s symbol (pocupine, elephant…) on each street, on walls, flags, above doorways. Make time for the tourist-y film of Siena and the Palio playing continuously at the movie theater on main street.

The museum cumulative ticket is the best value. With it you can also reach the top of the Duomo’s nave walls, offering unbelievable views (better than the main square’s clock tower). If only for a day visit, it’s perhaps best to arrive shortly before lunch as the buses have already arrived and gone through the city like a swarm of locusts. See the sights while others are in the piazza eating lunch, and when they’re boarding their buses to leave, stay late for dinner and a passeggiata in the piazza, the beating heart of Siena. 

30 minutes south of Siena, but actually in a time and place of legends, is the most romantic spot of Tuscany, the roofless 13th century Abbey of SAN GALGANO. The chapel/shop further down the path stil has San Galgano’s sword embedded in stone. Free admission and worth the short walk in the woods if you happen to be driving on SS-73.

15 minutes north of Siena is the most photographed town of Tuscany, the tiny walled in hamlet of MONTERIGGIONI. It’s actually possible to walk across this town, from fortress wall to wall, in 6 minutes. We’ve enjoyed meals at “Il Pozzo”, even when that silly "Italian food expert" "Cooking Celebrity” Rachel Ray was there ordering cappuccino in the afternoon… hummm?…

Another 20 minutes north, through the borders of the Chianti region, to reach the famous tower town of SAN GIMIGNANO.  As is the case with all medieval hilltop towns, for best country views and to understand the overall town layout, park below and walk to the top (only 1 main pedestrian-shop-lined street) to the 14th century fortress, Rocca. For the towns best frescos (albeit primitive looking compared to Tuscany’s later works) stop at the 12th century Romanesque church, La Collegiata, where a sight of “The Last Judgement” painted on the church’s back walls will have you re-thinking your next sin.

 

Medieval wall surrounding town

 

Towers of San Gimignano